Get ready to discover a hidden gem of
Greece! Starting in May, direct flights from Israel will whisk you away to
Lesvos, the third-largest island nestled off the coast of central Turkey. Known
for its attractive villages, beautiful beaches, hot springs, and traditional
Greek tavernas serving fresh food, Lesvos offers a taste of authentic Greek
culture.Lesvos Island
Lesvos holds the undisputed title of “ouzo capital”, home to the largest and most famous ouzo factory in the world, Arvantis Distillery. This island also carries a unique historical significance. Sappho, the famed 7th-century BC Greek poetess who celebrated love between women, lived here. The term "lesbian" originates from Lesbos, forever tying the island to LGBTQ+ history.
Given Lesvos' size, it is best to
explore it by car, distances are manageable, and parking is free. This allows
you to combine day trips with relaxation at your base, creating a perfect mix
of adventure and R&R. Since most attractions are within a 1.5-hour drive
from Mytilini, the capital, you can easily plan a star-shaped itineraries or
split your stay between different locations to experience the island's diverse
vibes. From scenic mountain trails and picturesque towns to a birdwatcher's
paradise (Kalloni wetlands), stunning beaches (predominantly pebble beaches,
with some sandy beaches), hot springs, and recreation areas, Lesvos offers
something for everyone.
Lesvos is a mountainous and fertile
island with hundreds of acres of agricultural fields, including olive groves
and vineyards. Renowned for its extensive olive oil industry, the island
features over 11 million olive trees.
Mytilini: The Vibrant Capital
Mytilini, the charming capital of the
North Aegean Islands, surprises visitors with year-round activity and vibrant
nightlife. As the administrative center, it houses the region's governor's
residence and all municipal services. The settlement dates back to ancient
Greece, though most buildings are around 150 years old.Mytilini port
The center of Mytilini is located next to the
active port where ferries and large cruise ships come and go. A major draw is
the central, pedestrian shopping street and market, originally a canal. In the evening, the charming Ladadika quarter,
formerly olive oil warehouses, transforms into Mytilini's entertainment
district, buzzing with lively restaurants and bars. Don't miss out on Boem, serving
modern Greek cuisine, and their Feta wrapped in fyllo and honey is a must-try. For
an excellent international selection, head to Home. Farther away, Dimos offers
Greek food in front of the view of the Mytilini castle, venture slightly
outside the center, Antonis in Kagiani is known for its excellent Greek mezze
dishes high on the hill with a view.Mytilini
Ladadika |
Petra and Molyvos : Twin Jewels by the Sea
Approximately an hour from Mytilini lies
a top destination on Lesvos: a captivating duo of nearby towns that shouldn’t
be missed, Petra and Molyvos, which deserve at least a day of exploration.Petra, Lesvos, Greece
Petra features two key attractions: the
Vareltzidaina house, showcasing 17th-century local architecture, and the
Panagia Glykofilousa church. This church, perched on a rock in the town center,
is worth the easy 114-step climb for its breathtaking balcony vista overlooking
the bay, orange-tiled roofs, and surrounding mountains. Petra also offers a
long sandy beach with various water activities.Pagagia Glykofiolousa, photo: Sarit Rousso
Pagagia Glykofiolousa, photo: Mali Abramovich |
Just a five-minute drive away lies
Molyvos (ancient Mithymna), a well-preserved medieval gem with a castle, cobbled streets, narrow alleys, local shops, bars, restaurants
offering local culinary experiences. Start your exploration at the castle remains, working your way down to
the port. The castle view is truly awe-inspiring, don’t miss the observation
deck near the castle, offering another panoramic perspective. As you descend
the cobbled alleys, lose yourself in the vibrant market, especially when April
arrives and Wisteria blossoms create a captivating purple canopy overhead.
Don't rush your descent - browse the charming shops, admire the stunning views,
and indulge in a cafe or restaurant with breathtaking vistas. While the harbor
itself might be small and tranquil, ending your day with authentic Greek food
at a waterfront restaurant, like Mistral, makes for a perfect finale.Molyvos, photo: Miki Levin Molyvos, photo: Sarit Rousso
Molyvos, photo: Sarit Rousso |
Molyvos |
In the south of Lesbos lies Plomari, a
50-minute drive from Mytilini. It is worth visiting for its olive mill, ouzo
museum, and traditional village atmosphere.
Lesbos, with one of the highest
concentrations of olive trees in Greece, makes olive oil production a
cornerstone of the local economy. Protoulis Olive Mill, a family-run
business for three generations, is a key player in this industry. During olive
season, witness the magic of olives transforming into golden oil firsthand! The
mill offers a fascinating 50-minute tour, including a presentation of the
modern production process, an informative video, and a guided tasting of their
extra virgin olive oil. (See website protoulis.gr/, booking required,
visit starts from €5)
Ouzo Plomari |
Afterward, continue to Plomari village itself. Wander the
cobbled streets and coloured houses. Consider lunch at the marina, perhaps take
a stroll along the breakwater for seaside views of the town. We had a Greek
lunch at a Apolafsi, a very good restaurant at the port. The local beach of
Agios Isidoros is considered one of the best on the island.Plomari port
Plomari alley |
Apolafsi restaurant Plomari |
Apolafsi restaurant Plomari |
Agiasos is a colourful and picturesque
mountain village about 50 minutes away from Mytilini. This village offers a
magical Greek atmosphere, with narrow cobbled streets, charming cafes, and
traditional bakeries. The
village is particularly known for its impressive church, the Dormition of the
Virgin Mary. When exploring the village, if you find yourself by the
church, don't miss Theofilon Café. This cosy cafe features a traditional wooden décor. Be sure to try their
specialty tea, brewed with local spices and honey.Agiasos, photo Sarit Rousso
Oerma Therme: Rejuvinating in Natural Hot Springs
Make time to unwind in the famous hot springs
located on GERA Bay, about fifteen minutes from Mytilini. The site is a
favorite of the locals who come here regularly, especially during winter. The thermos-mineral
water originates from a depth of 2500 meters deep in the earth, emerging at a
temperature of 39.5 degrees. The baths offer a thermo-mineral infinity pool and
a jacuzzi facing the bay view. In addition, there is an organized beach and
indoor pools separated for women and men. These are ancient pools in a vaulted
structure with white walls and a stone floor. Bathing in them is a particularly
relaxing experience.Oerma Therme
The site also offers spa treatments, I found the
therapist here very professional! After bathing, unwind on the balcony or in
the lobby, enjoying the spectacular view. There is a snack bar here with
sandwiches and salads and special homemade ice lemonade, and a selection of
drinks including beer and ouzo. (https://thermaspalesvos.com/en/ from 3E, massage
starts at 20E).Oerma Therme photo Miki Levin
Oerma Therme |
Other places worth visiting are Kalloni
wetland, a birdwatching sanctuary, the village of Sigri with its petrified
forest, and Skala Sikamineas, a fisherman village with a beautiful beach.
Hotels and Rooms: Choosing the Perfect Escape
Lesvos offers a variety of accommodations to
suit every taste. The 5-star Elysion Hotel, located near
the airport, offers a convenient location just 8 minutes by car from Mytilini's
center. This modern hotel features suites with kitchenettes, fine cuisine, and
a swimming pool. Learn more at www.elysion.gr.
A different style hotel is Zaira hotel. A
rural resort nestled on the bay of Gera. Originally an olive mill and warehouse complex, the renovation has
beautifully preserved the site's historic character. The lobby showcases
ancient millstones, while the brick buildings exude rustic charm. Modernized
rooms provide comfort, adorned with beautiful décor, while the property boasts a beautiful beach, a romantic
courtyard, and a soon-to-be-completed swimming pool (opening in May). Zaira
Hotel offers a magical escape, perfect for relaxation and romance. They even
host weddings! Explore their website at www.zairahotel.com.Zaira hotel
Zaira hotel |
Lesvos offers a wealth of charming hotels and private room rentals scattered
throughout the island, catering to
diverse preferences.
The author was a guest of Kishery Teufa and
the Greek ministry of tourism
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