Thursday, April 25, 2024

Lesvos: Unveiling a Hidden Greek Gem

Get ready to discover a hidden gem of Greece! Starting in May, direct flights from Israel will whisk you away to Lesvos, the third-largest island nestled off the coast of central Turkey. Known for its attractive villages, beautiful beaches, hot springs, and traditional Greek tavernas serving fresh food, Lesvos offers a taste of authentic Greek culture.

Lesvos Island
Lesvos Island

Lesvos holds the undisputed title of “ouzo capital”, home to the largest and most famous ouzo factory in the world, Arvantis Distillery. This island also carries a unique historical significance. Sappho, the famed 7th-century BC Greek poetess who celebrated love between women, lived here. The term "lesbian" originates from Lesbos, forever tying the island to LGBTQ+ history.

Given Lesvos' size, it is best to explore it by car, distances are manageable, and parking is free. This allows you to combine day trips with relaxation at your base, creating a perfect mix of adventure and R&R. Since most attractions are within a 1.5-hour drive from Mytilini, the capital, you can easily plan a star-shaped itineraries or split your stay between different locations to experience the island's diverse vibes. From scenic mountain trails and picturesque towns to a birdwatcher's paradise (Kalloni wetlands), stunning beaches (predominantly pebble beaches, with some sandy beaches), hot springs, and recreation areas, Lesvos offers something for everyone.

Lesvos is a mountainous and fertile island with hundreds of acres of agricultural fields, including olive groves and vineyards. Renowned for its extensive olive oil industry, the island features over 11 million olive trees.

Mytilini: The Vibrant Capital

Mytilini, the charming capital of the North Aegean Islands, surprises visitors with year-round activity and vibrant nightlife. As the administrative center, it houses the region's governor's residence and all municipal services. The settlement dates back to ancient Greece, though most buildings are around 150 years old.

Mytilini port
Mytilini port

The center of Mytilini is located next to the active port where ferries and large cruise ships come and go. A major draw is the central, pedestrian shopping street and market, originally a canal. In the evening, the charming Ladadika quarter, formerly olive oil warehouses, transforms into Mytilini's entertainment district, buzzing with lively restaurants and bars. Don't miss out on Boem, serving modern Greek cuisine, and their Feta wrapped in fyllo and honey is a must-try. For an excellent international selection, head to Home. Farther away, Dimos offers Greek food in front of the view of the Mytilini castle, venture slightly outside the center, Antonis in Kagiani is known for its excellent Greek mezze dishes high on the hill with a view.

Mytilini
Mytilini

Ladadika
Ladadika

Petra and Molyvos : Twin Jewels by the Sea

Approximately an hour from Mytilini lies a top destination on Lesvos: a captivating duo of nearby towns that shouldn’t be missed, Petra and Molyvos, which deserve at least a day of exploration.

Petra, Lesvos, Greece
Petra, Lesvos, Greece

Petra features two key attractions: the Vareltzidaina house, showcasing 17th-century local architecture, and the Panagia Glykofilousa church. This church, perched on a rock in the town center, is worth the easy 114-step climb for its breathtaking balcony vista overlooking the bay, orange-tiled roofs, and surrounding mountains. Petra also offers a long sandy beach with various water activities.

Pagagia Glykofiolousa, photo: Sarit Rousso
Pagagia Glykofiolousa, photo: Sarit Rousso

Pagagia Glykofiolousa, photo: Mali Abramovich
Pagagia Glykofiolousa, photo: Mali Abramovich

Just a five-minute drive away lies Molyvos (ancient Mithymna), a well-preserved medieval gem with a castle, cobbled streets, narrow alleys, local shops, bars, restaurants offering local culinary experiences. Start your exploration at the castle remains, working your way down to the port. The castle view is truly awe-inspiring, don’t miss the observation deck near the castle, offering another panoramic perspective. As you descend the cobbled alleys, lose yourself in the vibrant market, especially when April arrives and Wisteria blossoms create a captivating purple canopy overhead. Don't rush your descent - browse the charming shops, admire the stunning views, and indulge in a cafe or restaurant with breathtaking vistas. While the harbor itself might be small and tranquil, ending your day with authentic Greek food at a waterfront restaurant, like Mistral, makes for a perfect finale.

Molyvos, photo: Miki Levin
Molyvos, photo: Miki Levin

Molyvos, photo: Sarit Rousso
Molyvos, photo: Sarit Rousso

Molyvos, photo: Sarit Rousso
Molyvos, photo: Sarit Rousso

Molyvos
Molyvos
Plomari: Unveiling Ouzo’s Secrets

In the south of Lesbos lies Plomari, a 50-minute drive from Mytilini. It is worth visiting for its olive mill, ouzo museum, and traditional village atmosphere.

Lesbos, with one of the highest concentrations of olive trees in Greece, makes olive oil production a cornerstone of the local economy. Protoulis Olive Mill, a family-run business for three generations, is a key player in this industry. During olive season, witness the magic of olives transforming into golden oil firsthand! The mill offers a fascinating 50-minute tour, including a presentation of the modern production process, an informative video, and a guided tasting of their extra virgin olive oil. (See website protoulis.gr/, booking required, visit starts from €5)

Ouzo Plomari
Ouzo Plomari
It's best to combine the visit with a tour of the nearby Ouzo Museum at Isidoros Arvanitis distillery. The Ouzo Plomari is very well known for its aromas and exquisite taste. It is produced using a secret family recipe, and is sold all over the world, even being certified Kosher. The museum tour starts with a short film telling the history of the distilleries. Donning hygiene robes, visitors enter the production area witnessing the impressive hot boilers are and the bustling bottling line. The tour concludes with a guided ouzo tasting (see website www.ouzoplomari.gr/, booking required, 2).

Afterward, continue to Plomari village itself. Wander the cobbled streets and coloured houses. Consider lunch at the marina, perhaps take a stroll along the breakwater for seaside views of the town. We had a Greek lunch at a Apolafsi, a very good restaurant at the port. The local beach of Agios Isidoros is considered one of the best on the island.

Plomari port
Plomari port

Plomari alley
Plomari alley

Apolafsi restaurant Plomari
Apolafsi restaurant Plomari 

Apolafsi restaurant Plomari
Apolafsi restaurant Plomari 
Agiasos: A colourful Mountain Village

Agiasos is a colourful and picturesque mountain village about 50 minutes away from Mytilini. This village offers a magical Greek atmosphere, with narrow cobbled streets, charming cafes, and traditional bakeries. The village is particularly known for its impressive church, the Dormition of the Virgin Mary. When exploring the village, if you find yourself by the church, don't miss Theofilon Café. This cosy cafe features a traditional wooden décor. Be sure to try their specialty tea, brewed with local spices and honey.

Agiasos, photo Sarit Rousso
Agiasos, photo Sarit Rousso

Oerma Therme: Rejuvinating in Natural Hot Springs

Make time to unwind in the famous hot springs located on GERA Bay, about fifteen minutes from Mytilini. The site is a favorite of the locals who come here regularly, especially during winter. The thermos-mineral water originates from a depth of 2500 meters deep in the earth, emerging at a temperature of 39.5 degrees. The baths offer a thermo-mineral infinity pool and a jacuzzi facing the bay view. In addition, there is an organized beach and indoor pools separated for women and men. These are ancient pools in a vaulted structure with white walls and a stone floor. Bathing in them is a particularly relaxing experience.

Oerma Therme
Oerma Therme

The site also offers spa treatments, I found the therapist here very professional! After bathing, unwind on the balcony or in the lobby, enjoying the spectacular view. There is a snack bar here with sandwiches and salads and special homemade ice lemonade, and a selection of drinks including beer and ouzo. (https://thermaspalesvos.com/en/ from 3E, massage starts at 20E).

Oerma Therme photo Miki Levin
Oerma Therme photo Miki Levin

Oerma Therme
Oerma Therme

Other places worth visiting are Kalloni wetland, a birdwatching sanctuary, the village of Sigri with its petrified forest, and Skala Sikamineas, a fisherman village with a beautiful beach.

Hotels and Rooms: Choosing the Perfect Escape

Lesvos offers a variety of accommodations to suit every taste. The 5-star Elysion Hotel, located near the airport, offers a convenient location just 8 minutes by car from Mytilini's center. This modern hotel features suites with kitchenettes, fine cuisine, and a swimming pool. Learn more at www.elysion.gr.

A different style hotel is Zaira hotel. A rural resort nestled on the bay of Gera. Originally an olive mill and warehouse complex, the renovation has beautifully preserved the site's historic character. The lobby showcases ancient millstones, while the brick buildings exude rustic charm. Modernized rooms provide comfort, adorned with beautiful décor, while the property boasts a beautiful beach, a romantic courtyard, and a soon-to-be-completed swimming pool (opening in May). Zaira Hotel offers a magical escape, perfect for relaxation and romance. They even host weddings! Explore their website at www.zairahotel.com.

Zaira hotel
Zaira hotel

Zaira hotel
Zaira hotel

Lesvos offers a wealth of charming hotels and private room rentals scattered throughout the island, catering to diverse preferences.

The author was a guest of Kishery Teufa and the Greek ministry of tourism



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